At first glance, the Umeda neighborhood appears to be a mind-boggling maze of subway and train stations connected via a spiderweb of crowded passageways. To gain some perspective, head to Hep 5, a nine-story department store and entertainment complex with a cherry-red Ferris wheel spinning on the roof. Board one of the gondolas for a thrilling ride—the apex reaches 105 meters—taking in panoramic views of the city and the teeming crowds below. Then head underground: In the basement of the neighboring Hankyu Department Store, you’ll find what many feel is the city’s best depachika, a Japanese department-store food hall where tantalizing offerings range from sushi-filled bento boxes and matcha-flavored cakes to jaw-droppingly expensive Yubari melons (they cost upward of ¥150,000). Seeking an easy-to-pack souvenir? Locals snap up boxes of Grand Calbee gourmet potato crisps in limited-edition seasonal flavors, like Camembert or white peach.